Cosmoceuticals - are they a marketing bluff?

Cosmoceuticals is a term that was coined in about 1980 by a Doctor Kligman.  Since then many Doctor Brands and even 'natural' brands have categorised themselves as cosmoceutical, with the inference that it is more potent, effective, credible, concentrated or with unique-to-them ingredients.  Most often, that is simply not the case. Cosmoceuticals do not have 'special' ingredients that are available only to those labelled as such, nor is there any requirement to use active ingredients in clinically tested concentrations, nor is it only Doctor Brands that can enter this arena. It's open to anyone who dares take the risk of being challenged by the ASA.

What is the definition of a  Cosmoceutical?

"A cosmetic that has or is claimed to have medicinal properties."

Cosmoceutical is a marketing term, not a legal definition. It is term that 'suggests' the ingredients and/or products, are a hybrid of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. You may be fed terms such as 'pharma-grade' (pause for gut wrenching laughter).  No governing or non governing body recognises 'cosmoceutical' as a term or category and that includes the FDA.

What is the definition of a cosmetic?

“articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied, to the human body . . . for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance”.

Or in the EU...

"A 'cosmetic product' shall mean any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition".

The reality is that the definition of a cosmetic was created in 1930's and is outdated, given the massive advances in science and efficacy testing. The truth is that our ingredients have been clinically tested and show results far beyond these outdated definitions. However, we have to subdue the communication of the benefits in order to satisfy this definition that is upheld by various organisations, including the ASA (Advertising Standards Authority), who have no real jurisdiction on cosmetics but do control what we say about them. This is why you will often see statements such as, 'helps to', 'enhances', 'improves', 'minimises', 'softens', 'younger-looking', etc. before the actual skin benefit.

What is the definition of a drug?

“(A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease"
“(B) articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals”

No cosmetic company can afford the testing that would enable the bigger claims to be made. They just would not make the money back. Drug companies can because they add patents that prevent any other company from marketing the same drug for a period of 10-20 years and in that time they reap huge sales and profits.

So where does MERUMAYA® fit in to this?

We don't claim to be a cosmoceutical or doctor brand, but we do work closely with cosmetic scientists to ensure that the ingredients we put into our products are efficacious, robust and at their full, clinically tested levels. Let's take Iconic Youth Serum as an example and assess some of the active ingredients, for its ability to be labelled 'cosmoceutical'.

Revitelix (Echium Oil) - Manufacturer's clinical tests show that this ingredient can perform like Retinol, to reduce wrinkles and improve elasticity. It has been shown to stimulate skin proteins such as collagen and fibrilin, repairing the skin

Venuceane - clinical tests show its ability to protect and repair uppermost layers of the skin. It has been shown to help prevent skin ageing.

Chromacare - tests show it can reduce hyper-pigmentation, improve collagen density and stimulate micro-circulation

Resistem - tests show it defends the skin, like a 'vaccine', against skin ageing and improves luminosity

Biodynes TRF - stimulates cell respiration and metabolism, to smooth skin

Happy Skin - containing Rhodiola Rosea, shown to induce beta-endorphins and gives skin resilience

Two molecular weights of hyaluronic acid - hydrate epidermis and lower down, the dermis.  Also help prevent blemishes.

As you see, Iconic Youth Serum goes way beyond moisturising!  In fact you are getting so much more than we can even tell you.  One of the Chemists behind that very, very famous product said 'Maleka, your Iconic Youth Serum formula, walks all over XXXXX. Infact, when you compare it formula-to-formula with so many of the serums on the market, it should really be selling for £500'.

We are looking forward to hearing how you get on with this and would love your comments below. Don't forget to share with your friends please, to help us get word out..

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